Red Fort Complex

By Rachel Heller

What is the Red Fort Complex?

The Red Fort is a massive fortress in Delhi, India, that dates to the 17th century. Built by the 5th Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, when he moved his capital from Agra to Delhi, it was taken over by the British in the 19th century. They used it as a garrison for their troops, destroying some structures inside its walls and adding barracks. The fort was also the site of the establishment of the newly-independent government of India when the first prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, first raised the Indian flag in the fortress in 1947.

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Next to the Red Fort is the older 16th-century Salimgarh. The two fortresses together form the UNESCO site called the Red Fort Complex.

This massive fortress was a clear show of power, and is in a Mughal style. That means it is primarily Muslim-inspired architecture – the Mughal emperors were Muslims – with elements of other architectures mixed in (Persian, Timurid and Hindu, according to UNESCO). Typical elements include onion-shaped domes, minarets or towers in the corners, big hallways with rows of pillars, and large elegant gateways. Shah Jahan was an important figure in terms of architecture. For example, he’s also the one who commissioned the Taj Mahal as a tomb for his wife.

Why is the Red Fort Complex a UNESCO World Heritage site?

The complex – both the buildings and the layout of the garden – is considered an outstanding example of Mughal architecture. It was innovative enough to influence other projects in other parts of India. It also illustrates the British period’s use of and alterations to the earlier design. The fort has represented power in India under the Mughals, the British, and then as the site of independence for modern India.

What can you expect on a visit to the Red Fort?

The most impressive part of the fortress, in my view, is the wall around it. Just for sheer size it makes a statement. Built of red sandstone – hence its name – it is topped with Mughal-style crenelations and has a moat around it.

When you first enter through the Lahore Gate, you pass through a covered structure lined with souvenir shops. Originally there would have also been shops on the upper story, where you’ll see balconies above the shops. Today they cater to tourists, but originally they catered to the wealthy who had business (or pleasure) inside the fort. Apparently building a covered market like this was innovative at the time. It’s not in great shape – a bit tattered and faded. But that’s true for many of the buildings inside the walls.

Once you’ve passed the market hall, you’ll find a number of buildings laid out in neat rows across the 256-acre site (104 hectares). Some are original Mughal structures: several pavilions in a line (two white marble and one red sandstone) would have once been connected by waterways across gardened areas. When I visited in January, the channels and pools were dry. I don’t know if they hold water during the wet season these days. While you can get an inkling of what the gardens were once like because of the neat layout of the walking paths and the rows of ancient trees, it all looked a bit forlorn to me.

The British tore down some of the original buildings, but you can spot some ruins here and there. Toward the back of the fort you’ll see some intact buildings that were once the royal residence, including a hammam and a mosque in white marble with inlaid flower images.

Apart from the Mughal architecture, you’ll find a number of British-era structures in red and white stone. Most of these are long, rectangular barracks blocks. Nowadays they’re used for a range of purposes.

One, right inside the Lahore Gate, is now a “Red Fort Experience,” which I can’t describe because I didn’t pay the extra fee to see it.

One contains an interesting museum chronicling the early years of the Indian fight for independence and the First War for Independence in 1857. It does not pull any punches describing the violence and cruelty of the British forces as they put down regional rebellions all over the country. Much of the exhibition describes and honors various individuals, whether they were leaders or not, who fought and died for the cause. It’s not a very interactive presentation, but the story is so compelling that we found it interesting nevertheless.

There’s a separate museum nearby dedicated to Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose – an Indian nationalist leader in the fight for independence from Britain – and the Indian National Army, but we didn’t visit that one. It continues the story of the struggle for Indian independence.

We particularly liked the Aatmanirbhar Bharat Centre for Design. This government agency aims to promote sustainable development of local economies through encouraging indigenous traditional crafts. At the same time, they promote the evolution of these handicrafts to meet the demands of modern-day consumers. What visitors see here is a series of rooms along a hallway – once one of the British barracks. In each room a different handicraft is described, displayed and, in a few cases, demonstrated. Each represents an “incubation project” built around a particular local handicraft tradition, each from a different region of India.

Many websites reference an archeological museum within the grounds of the Red Fort. If you know something about it, please leave a comment below. We were not able to find it; I think it has moved elsewhere.

Is the Red Fort worth visiting?

If you’re in Delhi, it’s certainly worth visiting. The history and architecture are interesting and what I particularly liked was how much open space there is. Even though a lot of people were visiting the fort the day we were there – mostly Indians, not foreigners like us – fencing keeps everyone from crossing the fields between buildings. That, combined with the trees along the paths, gave a feeling of calm and spaciousness as we strolled, something that seems hard to come by in Delhi. We could still hear the ongoing cacophony of horns from the cars and tuk-tuks on the streets around the fort, but it faded to a background noise inside the walls.

What sorts of travelers would like the Red Fort?

Certainly anyone interested in architecture or the Mughal period would like it. So would anyone who’d like to spend some time in a somewhat quieter, greener environment. I did not see anything that was particularly aimed at children, though many Indians had brought their children with them.

If Mughal architecture interests you, there are several other UNESCO sites that are prime examples of the style: Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi; Agra Fort and, of course, the Taj Mahal in Agra; and Fatehpur Sikri, about 40 km (25 mi) outside of Agra.

Tips for visiting the Red Fort Complex

We made the mistake of buying our tickets ahead and then wasted about a half hour as the security guards at the entrance wouldn’t accept them because they didn’t show the price we’d paid. They eventually let us in when we phoned the agency that had issued the tickets and got them to email us new tickets with prices on them. You can buy tickets at the entrance, so just do that to avoid a hassle.

We visited without a guide because we had read that audio tours are available. Perhaps they are, but we didn’t find them, which meant we had to rely on the sign boards near some of the buildings. These gave only the most basic information. It’s probably a good idea to hire a guide. There are many options for tours of the Red Fort and other sights in Delhi.

Wear comfortable flat shoes for safety on the cobbled paths. Actually, that’s good advice anywhere in Delhi.

While the bathrooms inside the fort are clean and well-maintained, there is no toilet paper provided. Bring your own.

Keep an eye out for the brilliant green Rose-ringed Parakeets and the Indian Spotted Eagles that seem to live on the grounds.

Use the map below to find your accommodations near the Red Fort in Delhi:

Both when you enter and when you leave the fort, you’ll have to run the gauntlet through crowds of hawkers and people trying to lure you into their tuk-tuks. Just be firm with your “No!” if you don’t want anything. On the other hand, it’s easy to find a tuk-tuk if you need transportation once you leave. Agree a price before you get in.

You’ll see from the pictures here that the day was quite hazy. I assume that has to do with the terrible air quality in Delhi. Get there early in the day to miss the worst of it, as well as to avoid the more crowded afternoon. You might also want to wear a face mask for at least a bit of protection.

Where is the Red Fort?

The Red Fort’s address is Netaji Subhash Marg, Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi. If you’re staying near the metro, take it to the Lal Quila station right outside the entrance to the fort. Chandni Chowk, Jama Masjid, and Chowri Bazar stations are also not far away. Otherwise you’ll need to take a tuk-tuk or taxi. No one needs the address; everyone knows the Red Fort.

For more information about the Red Fort Complex, its opening hours and admission fees, see the Delhi Tourism website.

Have you been to the Red Fort Complex? If so, do you have any additional information or advice about this UNESCO World Heritage site? Please add your comments below!