Rhaetian Railway in the Albula / Bernina Landscapes

By Rachel Heller

What is the Rhaetian Railway in the Albula / Bernina Landscapes?

The Rhaetian Railway is made up of two historic railway routes through the Swiss Alps, plus the landscapes around them. The original Albula line opened in 1904, while the Bernina line opened in 1910. Combined, they include 55 tunnels (including some galleries) and 196 viaducts and bridges, still in use today. They pass through dramatic alpine landscapes, which represented some extraordinary challenges in building the line, necessitating the many tunnels and bridges to allow the trains to climb and descend such steep terrain.

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Another disclosure: I was sponsored by the Rhaetian Railway on this trip. I took the regional train in one direction and the Bernina Express in the other.

Why is the Rhaetian Railway a UNESCO World Heritage site?

The railway is a UNESCO site mostly because the technological, architectural and engineering achievement of building it was extraordinary for its time. And it’s not just about the fact that they built it in such inhospitable conditions, but also that they built it with an eye to aesthetics. “The railway infrastructure moreover blends in particularly harmoniously with the Alpine landscapes through which it passes,” according to UNESCO. It’s an excellent example of high-elevation railways of its time period, and its high quality means that it has endured.

The railway “was instrumental in the long-term development of human activities in the mountains,” contributing to “disenclavement” of this part of the Alps. In other words, villages that were nearly impossible to reach, especially during the winter, became accessible and connected to the rest of the country.

This UNESCO site is transnational because the line reaches, as the last stop south of the Alps, the Italian town of Tirano.

What can you expect on a visit to the this railway line?

The Rhaetian Railway company operates the trains on this line. Any train between Chur and Tirano – the route I took – will take you up and over the highest train pass in Europe (2,253 meters or 7,392 feet), past constantly changing, gorgeous scenery. You’ll see picturesque little villages clustered in valleys; tall, snow-capped mountains, some topped with glaciers; and glacial lakes and reservoirs as well. As far as the historic constructions, if you look out the window toward the back or front of the train, you can often catch sight of elegant arched viaducts as you pass over them around a curve or distant ones you might cross later on the route.

Of course, what scenery you see will change with the seasons. When I went, it was November, and snow had already dusted the ground, even at low elevations. The trees had lost their leaves, except for the many pines, and the scenery was pretty much all in black and white. In the spring, summer or fall, the scenery will be more colorful.

While the route is historic, the trains are modern and comfortable. The regional trains (i.e. the ones used mostly by locals to get from place to place) are well-maintained and comfortable. Some have windows that will open for better picture-taking. On the other hand, if you travel from Chur to Tirano or back, you’ll have to change trains once or twice: in St. Moritz or in Samedan and Pontresina. The regional trains travel the route about once an hour during the day, so you can get off to sightsee along the way, rejoining the route later.

An alternative is the Rhaetian Railway’s tourist train on the same route, called the Bernina Express. This train is even more comfortable and has larger windows, allowing for even better viewing of the ever-changing scenery. However, you are required to reserve a seat, and that costs extra on top of your regular train ticket. On this train, you don’t have to change trains – it goes the whole way between Chur and Tirano. Since it runs only once or twice a day, getting off at any intermediate stop would probably mean a long wait or an overnight stay.

Is the Rhaetian Railway worth visiting?

If you like mountain scenery, this railway route is a great way to see it. Of course, there are hiking paths lacing the mountains because it’s a very popular hiking area. But with these trains, anyone can see these amazing views.

What sorts of travelers would like this railway line?

Anyone who likes pretty alpine scenery and wants to see it easily will enjoy this ride. Children, though, might get bored after a while, despite how beautiful the views are. The trains are, as far as I could see, entirely wheelchair accessible. If you have limited mobility, I’d suggest taking the Bernina Express so you can see out both sides more easily without having to move.

Tips for visiting the Rhaetian Railway

You get better views and some perks on the Bernina Express, so if the price isn’t a problem for you, choose that. If photography is important to you, on the other hand, take the regional train because you’ll find more windows that can open.

I would not suggest doing a roundtrip in one day, given that the trip is four or more hours long. Stay overnight in Tirano or Chur. My husband and I stayed in a lovely little hotel in Tirano (not part of the Rhaetian Railway’s sponsorship) called Eco Rooms & Breakfast, which I can certainly recommend.

Sit on the right going south, on the left going north. If at all possible, get a window seat.

Buy your tickets ahead of time. The further ahead you buy them, the less they’ll cost, but the extra charge for seats on the Bernina Express always applies. Look for “supersaver” tickets or day passes on the SBB (Swiss railways) website or download their app. Then add the Bernina Express reservations on top of that, which you can buy at their website.

Bring food and drink if you’re taking the regional trains. You have far more options of food and drink to buy on the Bernina Express.

Take a look at other UNESCO sites in Switzerland and Italy.

If you’re staying in Italy, you can sign up for a tour that includes the train trip, leaving from Como or  from Milan.

Where is the Rhaetian Railway?

The railway connects Chur (and other towns) in the south of Switzerland to Tirano in the north of Italy. The usual place to board in Switzerland is Chur. If you’re combining this with a sunless you’re skiing in the winter, when St. Moritz might be your starting point.

By train: The trains are excellent in Switzerland and generally run on time. From Zurich, Chur is about an hour and 15 minutes by train. From Lucerne it’ll take about two hours and 15 minutes, with a change of trains in Zurich.

By car: Driving from Zurich to Chur will take about the same amount of time – an hour and 15 minutes – but you’ll have to find parking, so plan more time (and money). From Lucerne, driving will take about an hour and forty minutes before looking for parking. If you’re planning to drive in Switzerland, compare rental car prices here.

For more information about the Rhaetian Railway, its operating hours and ticket prices, see its official website.

Have you been on the Rhaetian Railway? If so, do you have any additional information or advice about this UNESCO World Heritage site? Please add your comments below!