Abbey Church of Saint-Savin sur Gartempe

By Rachel Heller

What is the Abbey Church of Saint-Savin sur Gartempe?

While the original church on this site in Poitou, France, may have dated to the 8th or 9th century, the current Romanesque church dates to the 11th century. It is a quintessential Romanesque church of the period, built in the shape of a cross. The columns holding up the nave have richly-carved capitals. The bell tower is in a more gothic style and dates to the 14th century.

The church served originally as both a church and a Benedictine abbey. The abbey building attached to the church, with its monks’ cells and elegant refectory, was added in the 17th century.

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Why is the Church of Saint-Savin sur Gartempe a UNESCO World Heritage site?

The importance of the church isn’t in the building itself, though it’s a beautiful example of Romanesque architecture. What makes it special is the artwork inside it. Its ceilings and some walls are covered with well-preserved murals dating to the 11th-12th century. They constitute “testimony to the art of representing and painting in western Christian medieval civilization,” according to UNESCO’s listing. At the same time as being remarkable in terms of artistry, they also represent medieval ideas about dissemination of information since the images had an educational function.

What can you expect on a visit to Saint-Savin sur Gartempe?

Visitors first enter in the newer 17th-century wing, where you can pick up a very helpful tablet. It shows a diagram of the site, and allows you to hear about each part in any order, and to choose extra information if you want. It’s in French, but subtitles come in a variety of languages. For me, it was definitely worth using – it helped me understand what I was seeing, both in terms of the architecture and the murals. It also allowed me to see images of parts that are closed to tourists, particularly the wonderful murals in the crypt.

Consider this guided tour of the church and other sights in the area.

The first stop, then, of the tour, is the church itself. From the moment you enter it, right inside the entry, you’ll be confronted with vivid images of Bible stories. The entry has images of the Passion, the Resurrection and the Apocalypse. Inside, on the roof of the nave, lots of stories from Genesis and Exodus are illustrated. Look particularly for Noah’s Ark, looking much like a Viking ship, and the Tower of Babel as well.

The 17th-century addition is worth seeing too, though perhaps a bit of a letdown after those stunning murals. The refectory is an elegant gothic-style hall, but unfortunately, at least when I visited, an exhibition filled it with walls of pictures and text, so I could not get a full view of the space. Upstairs is a row of monks’ cells, each set with information about various topics regarding the architecture, the paintings, and the restoration process.

Is Saint-Savin sur Gartempe worth visiting?

That depends. If your main interest is architecture, there are many Romanesque churches scattered across France – you don’t need to see this one specifically. Look at the UNESCO site, Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France, for a long list of Romanesque and/or Gothic churches and cathedrals.

However, if your interest is medieval Christian visual art, this is certainly worth seeing.

What sorts of travelers would like Saint Savin sur Gartempe?

Anyone interested in the medieval period and its architecture or art would like it. It would be unlikely to interest children for long, so it wouldn’t be worth taking them along.

Book your accommodations in Saint-Savin.

Tips for visiting St-Savin sur Gartempe

Keep in mind that in France, many museums and other destinations are closed for lunch between 12 noon and 14:00. In the case of the Abbey Church of Saint-Savin sur Gartempe this is also true, except it is open all day every day in July and August. If you’re visiting outside of July or August, aim for when it opens or for 14:00.

A visit will take about an hour, more if you want to read all the extra information and/or inspect all of the exhibits in the monks’ cells.

The magnificent chateaux of the Loire Valley, a UNESCO site, are only a few hours from St-Savin. Bourges Cathedral, also a UNESCO site, is about two hours away by car.

Where is Saint-Savin sur Gartempe?

The abbey’s address is Place de la Libération-BP9, 86310 Saint-Savin. Saint-Savin is near the city of Poitiers in Nouvelle-Aquitaine.

By car: Driving is the easiest way to get to Saint-Savin. Compare rental car prices here.

The town of Saint-Savin is about 45 minutes’ drive from Poitiers, an hour and a half from Limoges, two hours from Bourges and almost 4 hours from Paris. There is free parking in front of the church.

By train: You can get there by train on the TGV from Bordeaux: take the TGV to Poitiers in 1 hour 20 minutes, then a bus from there for another hour. From Paris Montparnasse the TGV will take 3 and a half hours to get to Poitiers.

For more information about the Abbey Church of Saint-Savin sur Gartempe, its opening hours and admission fees, see its official website.

Have you been to Saint-Savin sur Gartempe? If so, do you have any additional information or advice about this UNESCO World Heritage site? Please add your comments below!