Shiretoko

By Daisy

What is Shiretoko? 

The Shiretoko Peninsula and Shiretoko National Park are regions on the northernmost Hokkaido island of Japan. Hokkaido is often regarded as the most “wild” and unspoiled part of the country and this little peninsula, some 123,000 hectares, 70 kilometres long and 25 kilometres wide (475 square miles, 43 by 15 miles), is its crown jewel. It boasts untamed natural beauty, an abundance of wildlife, waterfalls, rivers and lakes, mountain ranges and the tallest central (active) volcano: Mount Rausu. In short, it is a nature lover’s paradise.

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Why is Shiretoko a UNESCO World Heritage site?

Shiretoko became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2005 for its natural beauty and unique ecosystem.

Its importance is based on the formation of seasonal sea ice (at the lowest latitude in the Northern Hemisphere) on the Sea of Okhotsk, where the ice edge approaches the shores of the peninsula. The phytoplankton that blooms as a result of the melting ice is the basis of a complex ecosystem, supporting many species in the sea and on land.

This leads to the presence of a wide variety of both marine and terrestrial animal species, as well as many migratory birds. Many of these are endangered and/or endemic to the area, making the region an important habitat.

What can you expect on a visit to Shiretoko?

In Shiretoko you can experience the feeling of primal nature and witness an abundance of wildlife, coupled with the iconic Japanese aesthetics and traditions (such as bathing in onsens).

There is very little urban life, with the small town Utoro Onsen, famous for its hot spring baths, located on one side of the peninsula. This is the more touristic side where the most popular sights are located. The other town on the opposite side of the mountain is Rausu, which is instead a more residential fishing village.

There is only one road from Utoro that ends abruptly mid-peninsula and does not reach the tip of Shiretoko Cape. To reach the cape, you can take boat tours or embark on a multi-day hike. The same situation applies to Rausu. The two towns are separated by the Shiretoko Mountain Pass, which climbs over the volcanic mountain.

In Utoro, you will have dramatic views of the Sea of Okhotsk and several rocks that jut out of the coastline. The most famous is the large Oronko Rock, which visitors can climb. It offers views of the town and surroundings. Right next to it is “Godzilla Rock,” resembling the eponymous kaiju monster, which is a very “Japanese” and quirky sight.

North of Utoro, the single road leads to beautiful natural sights such as the Furepe waterfall and Oshinkoshin waterfall, terminating at the Kamuiwakka River and waterfall. On the way is Shiretoko Goko – the Shiretoko Five Lakes, which are the most popular attraction in the national park. These offer wonderful views of the surrounding mountains, which are also reflected in the still waters of the lakes. There is a suspended wooden path that leads to the first lake, while nature trails allow access to other lakes.

That is mostly all there is, but the beauty of Shiretoko does not lie in the number of sights. It lies in the untamed landscapes and the tranquil retreat that it offers.

Is Shiretoko worth visiting? 

Given that the peninsula is quite hard to reach (compared to other destinations in Japan, which are tightly connected by its stellar transport system), it is best to add Shiretoko as part of a larger visit to the beautiful Hokkaido region. 

Whether it is worth visiting at all clearly depends on how much you appreciate hiking along trails, spotting wild animals and experiencing a remote area.

In my opinion, it also largely depends on how much time you have and how many times you’ve already visited Japan. The Land of the Rising Sun is a unique country with unparalleled beauty and a distinctive aesthetic and culture. Visiting a remote peninsula, which has very little of “classic Japan,” might not be ideal for first-timers. To give you an idea, I visited Shiretoko after thoroughly exploring the rest of the country over a period of more than three months.

What sorts of travelers would like Shiretoko?

Nature lovers will certainly appreciate Shiretoko, as will those seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle of Japan’s immense mega-cities. Those experiencing fatigue from visiting numerous temples and Shinto shrines will enjoy it as well.

However, even for nature enthusiasts, I would recommend first visiting other iconic sights such as the Fuji Five Lakes and Aokigahara Forest, the regions in the “Japanese Alps”, or the spiritual pilgrimage destination of Koyasan. All of these places are surrounded by beautiful nature and offer excellent hiking opportunities. Lastly, when compared to another famous UNESCO site, Nikko National Park, I must say that Nikko wins hands down.

Tips for visiting Shiretoko

Where to stay

When it comes to spending the night, camping in Shiretoko is permitted only in designated areas. However, keep in mind that temperatures can be quite low at night. After all, the region is famous for its seasonal ice and is just 200 km (124 miles) from the Russian Kuril Islands.

There are few accommodations and these are available in the towns of Utoro and Rausu, as well as further south in the larger town of Shari, at the beginning of the peninsula. I stayed for a week in Utoro, initially at Iruka Hotel. It’s a wonderful house perched right on the coast with a friendly host, offering semi-traditional ryokan-style rooms (with tatami floors but regular beds). Both the rooms and the common area have a homely feel and provide amazing views of the sea.

I then moved to Kitakobushi Hotel & Resort in Utoro, the most luxurious in the area. This is a fantastic resort with hot-spring baths and beautiful lobby and lounge areas perfect for a tranquil evening with a glass of wine. The rooms are spacious and modern, as you would expect from a high-end resort hotel.

Nearby attractions

In Hokkaido, the cherry blossom season peaks about a month later than on the main island, typically in early May. This timing coincides perfectly with the peak bloom of the lesser-known (but arguably more spectacular) Shibazakura. These creeping flowers, known in the West as Moss Phlox, create vast fields of pink, white, and purple, creating some of the most picturesque sceneries imaginable. While the most famous Shibazakura festival is at Lake Motosu near Mount Fuji, the largest display is actually at Higashimokoto, located just south of the town of Shari in Abashiri (70 km from Utoro). A half-day trip or making a stop at Higashimokoto on the way to Shiretoko is well worth it.

Wildlife

Keep an ear out for nearby local visitors saying ‘Shika’ or ‘Meka’ (deer), ‘Kitsune’ (fox), or ‘Kuma’ (bear) as they may have spotted these elusive animals. The region is known for its high density of Yezo brown bears. Although much smaller than bear species found, for example, in Canada or the US, they are still wild and potentially dangerous. Note, however, that the park has a significant ranger presence, and certain trails or areas may be completely closed in the event of a bear sighting.

It should go without saying, but as in any natural environment, it’s important to respect nature: do not approach or feed the wildlife, and strive to leave no trace of your visit.

Seasons

Summer and spring are the most popular seasons for visiting Shiretoko, offering opportunities for leisurely hikes. Fall is also a great time to visit, thanks to the stunning display of autumn leaves. Winter is when the peninsula displays its most primal form. Some trails and the Shiretoko Pass often become inaccessible due to heavy snow and ice.

Where is Shiretoko? 

Within Japan, Shiretoko is as remote as it gets, so don’t expect the super-fast Shinkansen bullet trains to take you there as they do to other destinations. Only local trains reach the nearest town of Shari, located in the southern part of the peninsula. From there you must take a bus to the town of Utoro at the entrance to the National Park.

For better exploration at your own pace, renting a car is the best option. Driving in Japan may seem overwhelming at first (spoiler alert: it is), but Shiretoko might be one of the easiest places to drive due to the lack of complicated road signs, street traffic, or your car speaking to you in Japanese when passing toll booths.

The closest city with a small airport is Nakashibetsu, situated 90 km southeast of the peninsula. From there, a short flight will take you to the large city of Sapporo, which is served by many international flights.

For more information about Shiretoko, see the Ministry of the Environment’s website.

Have you been to Shiratoko? If so, do you have any additional information or advice about this UNESCO World Heritage site? Please add your comments below!