Chief Roi Mata’s Domain

By Teja

What is Chief Roi Mata’s Domain?

Chief Roi Mata’s Domain is a collection of three sites associated with Chief Roi Mata, dating from the early 17th century. It is the domain of his cultural landscape preserved through oral history of Vanuatu people and tabu prohibitions. Together, they provide an example of the authority of Pacific chiefly systems, and their connection to the landscape.

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The three tangible sites within the Domain are associated with his life and death:

• His residence in Maangas, which is on Efate, Vanuatu’s capital island;
• The site of his death in Fels Cave, which is on Lelepa island, across a strait opposite Maangas; and
• The site of his burial on the nearby Eretoka island.

Why is Chief Roi Mata’s Domain a UNESCO World Heritage site?

Chief Roi Mata was the last prominent chief in Vanuatu. His moral legacy was the social reforms that led to peaceful tribal relations and the ending of cannibalism in Vanuatu. This legacy is evident to this day in the continuing respect for his authority through prohibitions on the use of his key sites for the past 400 years, recognised through oral history of the local people. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site as an example of the Pacific chiefly systems and their connection to Pacific landscapes.

What can you expect on a visit to Chief Roi Mata’s Domain? 

While Chief Roi Mata’s Domain encompasses three physical sites, its significance is not solely about what remains at those sites. Rather, it is about the relationship between the Vanuatu people and the landscape of those sites, through social practices guided by the chief’s spiritual and moral legacy. 

Therefore, you shouldn’t expect the sites to contain much to ‘see’, as the tabu prohibitions mean that the sites are largely left alone. Instead, they should be visited through the mediation of a local guide, who can provide interpretation of the context in a similar way as would happen via customary oral history.

It is not easy to visit all three sites. There are almost no tours that cover all three locations. There are tours that cover Fels Cave and the burial site on Eretoka island like this one, but the most common tours by far only go to Fels Cave as part of a tour of Lelepa island. Fels Cave also contains 500-year old rock art, some of which depicts an ancient calendar system. Both are day tours. It may be possible to ask for a custom tour of all three sites from a village in the area. 

The former tour typically includes a boat trip to Eretoka island, and then another boat trip to Lelepa island, where you would have lunch and visit the village. The latter tour only goes to Lelepa island, combining a visit to the cave with snorkelling, a beach lunch, introduction to native botany, and a village visit. 

Language of the tour is very important, since most of this UNESCO site experience is through the oral narrative of the guide rather than any evident monuments at the physical sites themselves. Therefore, you should expect a local guide, who can communicate the worldview and beliefs associated with their chiefly system. All the tours are locally owned and operated. 

Is Chief Roi Mata’s Domain worth visiting?

Chief Roi Mata’s Domain is worth visiting if you’re already in Vanuatu and in Port Vila. However, if you’re not already on Efate island, it may not be worth making a detour specifically to see it. 

Additionally, the sites should not be visited independently. Despite not being far apart, they are not easy to get to without local help, and anyway there would not be any context to understand what you’ll find there without local guidance.

What sorts of travellers would like Chief Roi Mata’s Domain?

Travellers with an interest in culture, myths, and the Pacific worldview are likely to appreciate this site. Due to the inseparable cultural context of this UNESCO site, it may not have universal appeal. However, most available tours combine just one of the sites with activities that have a broader appeal, such as an island tour, snorkeling, etc.

Tips for visiting Chief Roi Mata’s Domain

Visiting via a tour is the most practical way to visit Chief Roi Mata’s Domain. Tour operators will provide for all your needs, but there are a few things you can consider beforehand.

If the tour includes beach and snorkelling time, you might consider bringing your own beach shoes, especially if you’re not an average size. The beaches on Lelepa island are natural coral sand, and have enough coral fragments to feel like you’re stepping on Legos. If you’re not confident of fitting average sizes, I recommend bringing your own beach booties. 

You will have the opportunity to buy local handicrafts in Lelepa village. Bring some money if you plan on buying souvenirs. Some of the handicrafts in Lelepa village may be nicer than in the market in Port Vila, so it’s best to postpone shopping there until after you’ve visited Lelepa. 

Many flights to Vanuatu go through New Zealand. If you’re going to spend time there, think about seeing their UNESCO sites: Te Wahipounamu – South West New Zealand and Tongariro National Park. If you travel through Fiji, visit Levuka Historical Port Town, also a World Heritage site.

Use the map below to find your accommodations in Port Vila:

Where is Chief Roi Mata’s Domain? 

Chief Roi Mata’s Domain is to the northwest of Efate Island. Efate is an island in the central part of the Vanuatu archipelago, and where its capital, Port Vila, is located. 

Tours will typically pick up guests from Port Vila locations, which is about 40 minutes’ drive to where the boat departs. It is about 10 minutes from Port Havannah. 

See Vanuatu’s official tourism website for more Lelepa island tour information.

Have you been to Vanuatu and Chief Roi Mata’s Domain? If so, do you have any additional information or advice about this UNESCO World Heritage site? Please add your comments below.